Interview with Heli Miikkulainen-Gilbert

Heli Miikkulainen-Gilbert ("HM") interviewed on Monday, 26 March.

Could you please tell us about your experience as a designer, artist, architect or creator?

HM : I've been in the fashion industry nearly 20 years now; since I got my BA Degree in Fashion Design from the Finnish Kuopio Academy of Design in 1999. After the graduation, having had started the work already during the last years of my studies, I continued design work for the Finnish bag supplier Cassinna Oy and created several successful collections of children's rucksacks and prints. In spring 2002 I was selected for the high-end ladies wear designer's position in Tazzia Oy, an indigenous Finnish wholesaler and boutique chain, and I was their sole designer for 5 years. In my spare time I worked on my own design projects such as custom-made print-shirts for men. I moved to Ireland in spring 2007 and dove in the Irish crafts & design circles while working as a sales consultant for Chanel ready-to-wear for a little while, in the beginning of my Irish life. Having had introduced my own creations/inventions, among others, the woollen tufted Eco Faux Furs, to lots of people by that time I was highly encouraged to start developing my own brand which I did later on along with running my own design & making business. Life threw me back to Finland in 2013. For the last half a decade I have been working in sales of Finnish fashion & lifestyle brand Marimekko, participated in some service design projects for the Finnish public & private sector and focused on growing the Eco Faux Furs brand.

How did you become a designer?

HM : Both my late Grandma and Father were real craftspeople who encouraged and inspired my creativity already when I was a very little girl. After the school days I used to cycle to my Grandma's and stay there for a few hours until my parents were off work and home. She taught me to sew clothes for my dolls and later on for myself with her super cool antique Singer pedal sewing machine. My Father taught me the principals of the wood and metal work. I didn't really need to think what I wanted to do after finishing the high-school as I naturally wanted to educate myself to work as a (clothing) designer for the rest of my life.

What are your priorities, technique and style when designing?

HM : My Father had been quite an inventor, I also have always had tendency to do something more than just high-street mass-produce-fashion so I kept my eyes and mind wide-open throughout the studies of 5-6 years; I absorbed all possible skills and knowledge in different types of clothing (women, men, children, elderly, sports, work, etc) and wanted to learn wide variety of manufacturing techniques and materials. To be able to create commercial fashion and sell myself as a professional I did very intensive studies in business & marketing and got 3rd level Degree in Business & Administration 2 years later. I top up my skill-bank continuously. My strengths as a designer are innovative customer-centred solutions which are made possible only by spending a big part of my design career with the potential end-customers at different shop floors. The real need is the force that drives my design work. I study the customers and everyday life endlessly. I try to allow myself as much time as possible for carefully thinking through the production process in my head at the start of the process which saves me time, energy and materials. In illustration of my ideas and work process I use both the old-fashioned and digital tools - lately mostly the last ones mentioned - for efficiency and the environment health.

Which emotions do you feel when designing?

HM : Probably all emotions are included. The 'invention'-moment after the pre-research gives feeling of excitement and inspiration that drives for the fast testing of the idea. The end result looking and working the same way or better as the original idea and getting the good feedback from the tester is a huge source of joy for me. Seeing strangers wearing my creations in the streets and on-line every time makes my heart take an extra jump of joy.

What particular aspects of your background shaped you as a designer?

HM : Being born into a creative and crafty family, having encouraging and supportive parents and real calling to the creative industry. For more answers to this question please see the former answers.

What is your growth path? What are your future plans? What is your dream design project?

HM : I'm still only in the start of developing my own Eco Faux Furs brand and my dream is to grow it bigger, to the international catwalks and have a showcase of my own. But I want to keep it non-mass-produce and as ecological as possible and I'm dreaming of creating a new and actual 'still-secret-concept' around it to bring up the profits i.e. make my own living full-time with it and at the same time help the world.

What are your advices to designers who are at the beginning of their career?

HM : Learn to sell yourself as a professional and do it constantly. Learn new things and update your knowledge continuously. Prepare to work hard and be different, your own individual. To work for someone else you need to have excellent business-mindset in addition to your creative and artistic skills as there's no continuity in the designer's position if there's no sales.

You are truly successful as a designer, what do you suggest to fellow designers, artists and architects?

HM : Learn new things and update your knowledge continuously, create new things and push them through the old-fashioned sales and marketing people: once a great designer doesn't mean always a good designer - one day you're in and one day you're out, the end-users are hungry for new. To achieve new, don't be afraid to put your heads together with the other artists, even with your competitor, and learn from them.

What is your day to day look like?

HM : I'm disciplined and get up the same time every morning whatever my timetable is. I go out every day and in full live the routines and observe carefully life and people around me. I listen to people and make notes in my day job in the lifestyle & fashion sales. I limit the usage of mobile devices and connecting online to the very minimum when I'm with people - I exist - which makes me feel productive and inspired in my creative problem solving when it's scheduled in my daily routine.

How do you keep up with latest design trends? To what extent do design trends matter?

HM : Like Mademoiselle Chanel put it into words: Style stays, fashion goes. I agree with her. However, the trends matter in some extent, of course; the lines and cut of clothing have to reflect the times and I try to fit them in my own work as timeless as possible. During the digital times following the current and up-coming trends has been made so easy and efficient one can save lots of time in trend-hunting when compared to the days 20 years ago.

How do you know if a product or project is well designed? How do you define good design?

HM : Good design works well and safely in multiple needs. Its full life circle is environment friendly. It's durable and timeless design - a lifetime companion. It's pleasant for all senses not forgetting being an excellent seller.

How do you decide if your design is ready?

HM : My design process is at final when after intensively testing the mock-ups/ concepts myself and getting honest & satisfied feedback for them from the other testers the reviews-drawn-together meet the targets I've set for the designs.

What is your biggest design work?

HM : Generally I'm the proudest of my work load given to the companies I have worked for throughout my career as by it I have managed to help their business to grow. That makes me realise I'm a professional and talented designer. Also I'm proud of my own brand that I have managed to develop to its current state of success from the scratch - the product being such unusual.

Who is your favourite designer?

HM : I really have many favourite designers, however the two of them are really standing up from the crowd; Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen and Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. They share the same values as I do in design & arts of which one can be described by the Finnish word 'sisu' which means the very extreme patience and force to help in doing almost impossible things. Plus the quality of both brands is not negotiable.

Would you tell us a bit about your lifestyle and culture?

HM : I live in Finland, the country with 4 proper seasons that all inspire me the different way. Not any day of the year is boring as every season brings new things to do and get energy & inspiration from. I used to dislike the dark wintertime, however since I moved back from Ireland 5 years ago I've learned to survive it and have highly enjoyed the bright light and colour therapy during my workdays all year round in Marimekko, the colourful and joyful Finnish fashion & lifestyle brand. I have arranged my home the most minimalistic but lived-alike to ensure my family and myself have the space to breathe and unwind in the middle of the demanding life, also make the friends feel welcome and my flow of creative thoughts to flow. I prefer functional design in my life and I tend to re-design as I go. Finland is very inspiring country for that with the countless amount of opportunities based on the 4 seasons of the year.

Would you tell us more about your work culture and business philosophy?

HM : My colleagues throughout my career have told it's easy to work with me as I create a friendly, equal and professional space around me. Talking about business I have a very strong business mind-set and I expect my partners to be the same. Working for the others I fully commit to achieve the corporate targets and I treat my job as if it was a position within my own company. I have strong work ethics, however I have also very clear sense of right and wrong which I don't allow to be questioned.

What are your philanthropic contributions to society as a designer, artist and architect?

HM : I do and am very happy to volunteer with my workload and arts to help my community, family and friends. However, learned by my mistakes throughout the years - which is the best way to learn really and one shouldn't be afraid of it - it's very important to be aware of where to draw the line in giving away your time and ideas for free. One must stand on solid ground her/ himself to be able to help the others. Be selfish the healthy way when thinking of involving yourself in the projects. You must carefully think upfront what's in it for the real improvement of that something asking you to join, not forgetting for a minute what's in it for you/ your brand/ your business. To find the suitable events and opportunities growing actively your network first is the best way get involved. I continuously look for people to collaborate with and every proposal I make for my own profit I offer fair profit in return.

What positive experiences you had when you attend the A’ Design Award?

HM : Attending the A'Design award has lifted up both my personal and fashion brands by recognising my talent and original designs professionally and internationally. Set standing up in the big crowd of designers in the times of very aggressive competition has helped my message as a designer being heard. The decisions of the professional and international jury are very carefully thought and based on the attendee's real merits. You have to earn your trophy, money can't buy it. I also find the networking opportunity with the other winners very valuable. The competition is loaded with the collaboration opportunities. It's a big honour being the Designer of the Day - the title encourages continuously getting better and doing better work to keep the title as "one day you're in and one day you're out".

Heli Miikkulainen-Gilbert Profile