Interview with Eleonora Federici

Eleonora Federici ("EF") interviewed on Sunday, 12 May.

Could you please tell us about your experience as a designer, artist, architect or creator?

EF : I've been a gemologist and jewelry designer for nearly 20 years, running my family-owned jewelry store. Since the late 1980s, our shop, "Gioielleria Marinone," gained recognition thanks to my father's keen eye for choosing watch brands that were totally unknown at the time but have since risen to the top. Similarly, my mother's visionary approach to jewelry design foresaw future trends and created unique pieces in collaboration with the best jewelers and now renowned brands. Growing up surrounded by this environment, I inherited my father's and my mother's foresight, instinct and taste. I've been crafting my own pieces and custom-made jewels since the beginning. While I cannot share specific names, my clients include prominent families from Northern Italy, and now new customers from other European countries.

How did you become a designer?

EF : My parents used to take me to museums and important Italian cities since I was very young. My parents have always loved Art and History, and I was lucky enough to be born and live in the country that is the epitome of it in the world. From a young age I had a passion for drawing and painting, which I abandoned for a while during my time at the classical high school, because this course of study was, and still is, the most difficult in Italy. Classical studies helped me not only to appreciate the wonderful history of my country, but also to develop a great willpower, a sense of sacrifice and tenacity. Then I studied Art and Literature at University. My parents had founded the "Marinone" jewelry shop in 1980, and since childhood I have taken part in this world. For me, an Art and Beauty lover, it was almost natural to take up that profession. And I, who have always had a penchant for perfection, could not enter the business without the proper preparation. So I decided to become a gemologist. I studied Gemology at the “Istituto Gemmologico Italiano,” of which I am now a member. Gemstones showed me that Nature can be a huge source of inspiration. Since my first days in my family Jewelry shop I could express myself creating unique, high-end jewels for our Customers. For the last 18 years I have been developing my skills as a goldsmith, and I have learned wax modeling from one of the most talented jewelry modelers in Italy. Finally, I decided to complete my education with an eye on the future by taking a high-level course in CAD and CAM design in jewelry at the Gemological Institute of America: the most prestigious and important gemological institute in the world. This is my background: for me, there is no difference between the intellectual ability to have an idea and the technical and practical ability to execute it. To me, having control over the entire creative and productive process is a sign of great professionalism. I became a designer automatically and naturally, I cannot even call it a choice or a decision. It is something that comes from within and probably has to do with what my parents have taught me since I was a child. I was definitely born to be a designer.

What are your priorities, technique and style when designing?

EF : The process starts with an inspiration, then the idea develops in my head and I have a vision of the end result. Then I start creating the model according to that image: I can sketch the idea on a piece of paper or on the computer with a graphics tablet. Before taking the Jewelry Design & Technology course (at the Gemological Institute of America), I simply modeled the wax with my hands. Now I start creating the model directly on Rhinoceros7 or Z-Brush. I also get beautiful renderings with these amazing tools. Absurdly, I find it easier to create the model directly than draw it: my mind is my canvas. Sometimes I make some changes to get a piece of jewelry that should be not only beautiful but also wearable.

Which emotions do you feel when designing?

EF : The most exciting phase of the process is the initial idea and the first steps I take to start building the model. I feel the challenge of achieving perfection, and that makes me enthusiastic. I feel that each jewel I create is a part of me... like a child growing up and leaving home... When I am done with my work, I feel really satisfied and eager to create the next design. When I create I feel alive, it gives my life a meaning. It's like my soul and brain need it to survive. I think that without the ability to create, I would die.

What particular aspects of your background shaped you as a designer?

EF : I received an education characterized by seriousness, intellectual honesty, and respect for others. The course of study I took as a young person taught me sacrifice, dedication and perfectionism. All of this combined with an innate creativity has, in my opinion, created the necessary blend of qualities to be a great designer. One of the people who influenced me the most was my mother, with whom I worked for many years and who taught me a lot. Then, of course, my cultural background and open-mindedness, which is one of my main characteristics, helped me to develop my style and skills.

What is your growth path? What are your future plans? What is your dream design project?

EF : I have big plans... I want to open my e-commerce website where jewelry and design lovers can buy my unique creations. In my life, I have always dreamed of leaving a legacy to the world. It's time to do that, I have been waiting too long. I want people to be able to remember my name 100 years from now. Am I thinking too big? Probably, but no one knew who Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was when she started her company... I have a special piece of jewelry in mind for the near future that is made up of different parts that can be put together and taken apart to create several different pieces of jewelry, and that can also be put together to create a wearable object, but that is no longer a piece of jewelry in the strict sense.

What are your advices to designers who are at the beginning of their career?

EF : Never surrender. Sooner or later someone will believe in you!

You are truly successful as a designer, what do you suggest to fellow designers, artists and architects?

EF : To my fellow designers, artists, and architects, I suggest adhering to a few key principles that have contributed to my success. Firstly, prioritize quality and craftsmanship in every aspect of your work. Attention to detail and dedication to excellence will set you apart. Avoid the trap of complacency by continuously seeking inspiration and pushing your creative boundaries. Embrace criticism as a tool for growth; be open to feedback and constantly strive to improve. Additionally, cultivate strong relationships within the industry; networking and collaboration can lead to valuable opportunities. Remember to stay true to your vision and values, even in the face of challenges or trends. Finally, never stop learning; stay informed about emerging technologies, materials, and design trends to remain relevant in a constantly evolving field.

What is your day to day look like?

EF : Milk and coffee with some cookies as soon as I wake up, then I work all day (in my jewelry shop projecting new models). I go for a run, or do Pilates at least 4 times a week (if possible!). I like cooking in my free time (I am really fond of making pastries), which I usually do during the week-ends. When I can, I go to Tuscany where my father was born, and take long hikes up in the mountains and in the fall, we usually go together searching for mushrooms. Those moments are fundamental for relaxation and they give my brain renewed energy so I can have new ideas for my jewels.

How do you keep up with latest design trends? To what extent do design trends matter?

EF : I do not tend to follow fashion trends, preferring to stick to my own personal style and ideas. But at the same time I think that as an artist I am obviously and unintentionally influenced by everything that happens around me…

How do you know if a product or project is well designed? How do you define good design?

EF : First of all a good design never goes out of fashion. That means that it will always be beautiful, wearable, useful.

How do you decide if your design is ready?

EF : That’s the easy part: I am so picky and meticulous that it’s ready when it’s perfect.

What is your biggest design work?

EF : The Hummingbird is definitely the project that gave me the biggest satisfaction: not only did it embody exactly what I wanted to represent (symbolize the coexistence of humans and fragile, endangered species), but it had all the characteristics I look for in a jewel. And it won an A 'Design Award! But I also carry another piece in my heart: it is a ring, the model of which I carved with my own hands and which took months to make... It is a continous lace in the form of a dome-shaped ring set with precious stones, hard to explain in words!

Who is your favourite designer?

EF : There are many artists in many fields that have changed the history of art, fashion, architecture, etc. that I admire: Frank Lloyd Wright, Mary Quant, Rinaldo Gavello, Marc Jacobs... and they are not the only ones.

Would you tell us a bit about your lifestyle and culture?

EF : My cultural background has a great influence on who I am today and on my designs. Classical studies, the good fortune of living in Italy, a degree in gemology, and a family-owned jewelry shop in business for 42 years have all contributed. Good design is necessary for the progress of society...there is no doubt about it. Design is Art. And Art is progress: history has taught us that. Today's world would have no heritage without the great designers of the past, just think of Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Donatello, Brunelleschi, Van Gogh, Matisse, Rodin... and the list is endless!

What positive experiences you had when you attend the A’ Design Award?

EF : Participating in design competitions and awards is essential because you will be challenged to create something new, and your skills, imagination, and technical abilities will be stretched to the limit. You feel the challenge to be the best. Needless to say, it's a great opportunity to be recognized and opens the door to a successful future. I am truly honored and proud to have been chosen as Designer of the Day.

Eleonora Federici Profile